You have figured out by now that one of the traits that characterises cooking of the American South is that nothing is wasted.
Tomatoes that do not ripen before the first frost are prized for their firm flesh and tartness. They are used in dishes that balance texture, acidity, and spice. What started as a survival ingredient has been transformed into a much-loved regional icon, found at farmers’ market stalls, on diner plates, and served at family meals.
If you’re interested in acidity and texture, then you can’t beat green tomatoes. Their firm flesh stands up well to both grilling and frying; their tangy, bright flavour complements smoky or rich foods well. Southerners have a love of savoury, crunchy, and pickled flavours, which helped turn green tomato recipes into Southern classics. And let’s not forget about seasonality and frugality – using unripe tomatoes (like using watermelon rinds) lowered waste and made summer harvests last into the fall and winter.
When I was growing up in New York City, we had a small garden in the backyard. Mom panted bell peppers, bush and pole beans, and tomatoes. Late summer/early fall brought cooler temperatures, which meant that tomatoes on the vine failed to turn red, staying stubbornly green and really hard. Green tomatoes had their place in my Virginian mother’s larder, as they do across Southern kitchens. In the Thorne household, green tomatoes from the backyard garden were used to bolster chow chow, a multi-vegetable pickled relish. (Garden of Eva uses red tomatoes in ours. Believe it or not, green tomatoes in the UK are prohibitively expensive!)
There are multiple, delicious ways to enjoy green tomatoes:
- Green tomato salsa – either lightly roast the tomatoes or leave them raw (season with salt and pepper), and mix them with coriander, onion, lime and chilies to top tacos or use as a bright dip.
- Pickled green tomatoes – you can either ferment them or do a quick pickle (my preference), spiced with garlic, dill, and peppercorns; use as a sandwich topping, as a side with barbecue, or eat as a snack.
- Pickled green tomatoes – you can either ferment them or do a quick pickle (my preference), spiced with garlic, dill, and peppercorns; use as a sandwich topping, as a side with barbecue, or eat as a snack.
· - Fried green tomatoes – slice the tomatoes, dredge them in either flour or cornmeal (season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne pepper), and pan fry them until they are golden and crisp; drain on a paper towel and serve with hot sauce, buttermilk ranch dressing, or a Creole remoulade.
- Green tomato pie and preserves – sweetened and spiced like apple pie filling or made into a jam; these are truly Southern!
- Roasted or grilled green tomatoes – halve the tomatoes and char them; finish with olive oil, cheese, and herbs; serve as a smoky side for grilled meats.
- Green tomato stew or braise – cook bacon in a pan until crisp; add onions and sauté until soft; add garlic and chopped green tomatoes, season, and simmer until hot and cooked through; serve over rice or with grits.
- Burgers and sandwiches – fry or use slices of raw green tomatoes; they add tang and crunch to pimento cheese sandwiches, BLTs, and burgers.
Green tomatoes are a little off the beaten path in terms of what you may think of as an ingredient. But they are part of Southern food culture – versatile, practical, and bold.
Enjoy!
